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Filkins, Broughton Poggs, Langford and Kencott are all small villages built in the local stone, bound together by a twisty ribbon of lane, and if you walk across the fields by the old paths none is more than 15 minutes apart.

Each village has a very definite character of its own. Kencott is so quiet and tidy, the grass so green, the flowers so brilliant. It is no surprise that over and over again it wins the ‘Best Kept Village’ award. Look a little closer and find a more mysterious side: the dog sees a friendly ghost walk to and fro through a door that was blocked up in 1690; the church was dedicated in the 12th century to St George and on the tympanum and the village sign are figures that most take for St George slaying the dragon —not so, it is Sagittarius the Archer shooting into the mouth of the hound of hell. Hens still wander in the road and the whole street comes alive when the gardens are open in the summer. Then you can wander from cottage to cottage, from stall to stall and buy best home-made produce.

At Broughton Poggs, aeroplanes may roar overhead but inside the thick stone walls is the sweet music of bell ringing. The Old Rectory is said by some to have inspired Trollope to write the Small House at Allingham. Queen Anne Boleyn may glide down the Ladies’ Walk — who are we to argue? It is certainly a creepy spot — much more pleasant to sit on a sun-warmed tombstone by the small Norman church, remembering the monks who looked after the fishponds, and puzzle over the bumps on the field, which are all that remain of the old village.

Langford is the lucky village with a thriving primary school and an enthusiastic cricket club. The highlight of the year is the dance held in a large modern barn, when the caller gets young and old on their toes to the country and square-dance music. All the money goes to charity. Perhaps this energetic out-going life really is good for the health; cer­tainly the oldest inhabitant, Elizabeth Jones, is now 101 years old and still enjoys an afternoon out at the Happy Circle Club. She is the centre of a caring circle that shows village life at its best.

Filkins has a quarry that produces stone slates, and Saxons Close has been listed by the Dept of Environment because they were the first houses to be built by the district council using vernacular materials and traditio­nal skills. It was argued at the time that the small extra initial cost would be outweighed by low maintenance costs, and so it has proved. Next door is the Centre: the doctor’s surgery, the community post office (once the village hot baths), the swimming pool and the bowling green. In August the Bowls Club organise the annual flower show in the Carter Institute with skittling on the paddock opposite. Step inside and admire the Edwardian portrait of Mrs Amelia Carter draped in a fur stole. She funded the hall as a reading room for young men — to keep them out of the pubs! — from the profits made in the development of Carterton. No alcohol was allowed but there were two big open fires and a fine billiard table. At the top of the village the Crosstrees farmyard has been redeveloped. Woollen cloth, smocks and shrugs, pictures, furniture, green rushes and stone trefoils have replaced sheep, calves, hens and bulls.

 

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