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Situated on the southern slopes of the Chilterns, in that loop of the Thames
that dips towards Reading, Rotherfield Peppard was long ago on the Pack and
Prime way from Henley to Goring, an overland route transporting goods to avoid
the difficult navigation of the Thames around Reading. A settlement called
Redrefeld is recorded in the Domesday Book. Later, in the reign of Edward I,
Ralph Pipard was given the estate, whereby the area became known as
Retheresfelde Pipard. Around that time the construction of All Saints church
began, consisting then only of the chancel which has three small 12th century
windows. One of its three bells is a mid 14th century bell from the Wokingham
foundry; another is 17th century, inscribed Henry Knight made mee 1621.
The village is scattered on two sides of Peppard Common, a natural beauty spot
deeply divided by a dry valley that in prehistoric times carried water as it
wound its way down to the river at Henley. Indeed, this parish once extended as
far as the Thames and had its own pump, in Mill Lane, Henley, for extracting
water from the river in times of severe drought. Until the water main was laid
in early 1900, people relied on rain water tanks in their gardens, although some
were lucky to live near Spring Wood, from whose natural spring the local bakery
still drew water a generation ago.
The common has always been the great meeting place for the villagers to
celebrate, a place for recreation and enjoyment, for providing pasture and
firewood, blackberries and crab apples. Many the bonfire lit here to rejoice at
a Coronation, Jubilee, or end-of-war celebration. Many a winters day spent
tobogganing down its steepest slope, or a summer s day picnicking among
harebells and heather. Generations of children have sat astride its wishing
stone, isolated in the undergrowth perhaps originally a marker stone for
those packhorses of the Pack and Prime way that crossed the common here? Not far
away, overlooking the common, stands one of the oldest houses in the village,
Manor House, once a coaching house known as The Blue Monkey which served those
same travellers on the Pack and Prime road.
Centuries ago the villagers met here on fair days, as featured in Elizabeth
Goudges book, The White Witch, set in this village during the English Civil
War. (This well-loved author lived in Dog Lane for many years). The Peppard
Revels were held annually on Whit Monday, and appear to have been wanton and
wicked!
In the 1950's an area of the common was donated by the lord of the manor to
provide a sports ground and pavilion, in memory of those villagers who lost
their lives in the Second World War. Earlier, in memory of those lives lost in
the First World War, a fine village hall had been built. Here also is a
flourishing bowls club.
Rambling over the common, through beech woods and over farmland one sees much
evidence of pits from which chalk was dug, for spreading on the fields and for
providing firm floors for cattle sheds and barns. Also sites of flint excavation
can be seen in the valley, and fine use of this in the building of Peppard
primary school and many farm cottages. There is also evidence of a flint mine
worked during the early Stone Age in the aptly named Stony Bottom.
For generations this was a farming community with cattle, pigs and poultry
grazing and rooting in patchwork meadows. Today, sadly, the small farms have
given way to vast acres of cereals and oilseed rape, devoid of wildlife no
partridge, hare or lapwing on these antiseptic fields.
Most people now commute to Reading and London for work. Until a few years ago
Peppard Hospital employed many local people, on its farm and market garden as
well as the wards. Starting as a sanatorium because of the wonderful healing
air here in Peppard, it pioneered the valuable work in beating that one-time
scourge, tuberculosis.
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