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The village of South Stoke is unusual in that three highways, which have done
much to influence its history and people, pass through it. Two of these highways
are ancient, the river Thames and the Ridgeway path, while the third is the
Great Western Railway built by Isambard Brunel. These three routes converge as
they cross the parish boundaries near Ye Olde Leatherne Bottle public house to
the south and at the Moulsford railway bridge, known locally as the Four Arches,
to the north.
Clearly the oldest of these is the river Thames which borders South Stoke to the
west. Before the 16th century the lower land in South Stoke was marshy but then
the river provided fish and the adjacent land brushwood, willows and osiers.
Today one can still see, from the footpath between South Stoke and Little Stoke,
remains of a series of fishponds which provided food for the medieval monks
resident in the village at that time. These ponds were part of a much larger
complex and were fed by drainage ditches connected to the river. During the 16th
century a series of weirs was constructed along the Thames to control the flow
and to ease navigation for the increasing barge traffic. The barges were towed
by horses, the towpath crossed the river at the village at a point opposite
Moulsford and the horses were transferred by ferry from one side of the bank to
the other. As elsewhere river traffic declined with the advent of the railway
and the ferry ceased activity in 1961/2.
The Ridgeway path is a prehistoric way which was part of a comprehensive
communication system long before the Romans arrived. Evidence of ancient
enclosures and burial pits has been found in South Stoke, together with Roman
remains and coins. The Ridgeway now crosses land still owned by Christ Church,
Oxford, before it passes through the village.
When the railway came in 1838 it changed the character of the village
dramatically. It is built on a wide embankment with three low bridges over the
only roads into the village and there is a small culvert, known locally as the
bogey hole, which was constructed for the footpath to Little Stoke. The Four
Arches bridge, which crosses the river and the Ridgeway path together is,
itself, a listed building.
Manor Farm, beside the church, has always been the largest farm in South Stoke
and is still active. Parts of the present farmhouse date from the 16th century
and it still has the original oak panelling, moulded beams and a fireplace from
an even earlier date. Within the old brick and flint walls around the house are
several old buildings and barns. These include a square four-gabled medieval
brick dovecote, reputed to be one of the largest in the south of England, and a
granary standing on staddle stones.
St Andrews church incorporates several periods of architecture, with some of
the arches on the north side suggesting Norman work. The font is Early English
and a fragment of 14th century glass can be seen in the south-east window. The
chancel is dominated by a memorial commemorating Griffith Higgs. South Stokes
most famous son was born in 1589, was ordained as a priest and became chaplain
to King Charles I. The King sent him to be chaplain to his sister, Princess
Elizabeth, when she married and became Queen of Bohemia. Later Griffith Higgs
became Dean of Lichfield but during the Civil War, like his sponsor, fell from
grace. He saved his head but was stripped of all his titles and returned to
South Stoke. He created many charities and, in particular, an educational
charity which still benefits the children of South Stoke today.
During the early 19th century the parishioners of South Stoke became
increasingly disenchanted with the church vestrys conduct of local affairs.
Twenty four dissenters who worshipped in Goring built their own chapel in South
Stoke in 1820. Like the Goring chapel it came under the auspices of the Countess
of Huntingdons Connexion and flourished for over a century but this building
has not been used for worship since 1976.
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