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 Wolvercote

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The village, north-west of Oxford, was known as Ulfgarcote in Domesday after Ulfgar, the Saxon. The name Wolvercote came into being in 1185.

Situated on the edge of the wide expanse of its common and the open stretches of Port Meadow, the inhabitants have always jealously guarded their rights and stoutly defended their environment against the repeated efforts of Oxford City to enclose the land in order to meet the needs of its growing population. Even to this day the goose is their special emblem and the Womens Institute banner, permanently displayed in the village hall, shows a goose girl on the common. Some of todays older residents, when children, herded the geese back and forth across the common to the rivers edge. Grazing rights continue to this day and at least once a year the Sheriff of Oxford rounds up the horses and cattle on Port Meadow and Wolvercote Common and impounds them. Those owners who have no right to pasture their animals there must pay a heavy fine before they can be released from the pound.

Wolvercotes location near to the city of Oxford also accounts for its place in national history. Elizabeth I came through the village on both her visits to the city, in 1566 and 1592, travelling from the north on her way back to London. On the second occasion, a September day of heavy rain, the Queen, in her carriage, accompanied by courtiers in fine clothes, arrived at Godstow bridge, near the boundary of Wolvercote. Here she was met by the Vice-Chancellor, the heads of all the colleges and proctors, dressed in their best academic gowns, all on foot and accompanied by the beadles.

At the time of the Civil War, Charles I established his headquarters and Parliament in Oxford and during the siege required fodder for his horses. He made a written agreement (which is still in existence) with the tenants of land at Wolvercote and 61 freemen to provide hay for the Kings stables. One of Wolvercotes two mills was used by the Kings armourers to grind sword-blades. In the spring of 1644, when King Charles made his escape from Oxford by night, he and his 3,000 men took the unguarded track across Port Meadow and through lower Wolvercote to Yarnton and Bladon to the north. Wolvercote people showed their loyalty by keeping this move secret and the King was able to leave in safety.

The Walter family, whose tomb is in the parish church of St Peter, gave strong support to the King. Sir John Walter, Chief Baron of the Exchequer and Justice of England, was one of Wolvercotes foremost citizens and David Walter, his son, was Lieutenant of the Ordnance. Davids loyalty to King Charles was so unstinting that he burned down his own house at nearby Godstow in an attempt to prevent it falling into the hands of Cromwell and his men.

Dominant over the village is the paper mill. There has been one there for three centuries and until recently it was owned by the University Press, its quality paper being used for bibles. At church harvest festivals, rolls of paper or paper sculpture are displayed in addition to fruit and vegetables. The river, necessary for the mill to function, has also played an important part in the life of Wolvercote. Its bathing place, near an old toll bridge, is one of the most beautifully-sited in England; to the south, across the meadow, one sees the magnificent skyline of Oxford with its ancient towers and spires.

On a summer afternoon in 1862, Charles Dodgson (otherwise known as Lewis Carroll) together with his friend Duckworth, Alice Liddell and her sisters, came by in a rowing boat with a picnic basket on board. It was then that Dodgson began to tell the children a story. That was the start of Alice in Wonderland.

Wolvercote, described in 1817 as a rather extensive village, was never a place of wealth, most of its inhabitants living in simple hovels or earth-floored cottages, none of which survive. Nevertheless, a few finer houses of earlier centuries remain, much restored, and the village is now a conservation area. In the 19th and 20th centuries came extensive development and all of Wolvercote became part of Oxford City in 1928. The original, low-lying village, which was subject to winter flooding, grew up round the mill at the edge of the common. It is now separated from the church and school (which are situated on higher ground in Upper Wolvercote) by the canal and main railway line. The built-up higher area has no visible boundary between it and neighbouring Summertown in the north of Oxford and its large population has as its main focus the city rather than the village.

 

 

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